Bloat (GDV) in Dogs: Recognize the Signs and Act Immediately
Only a few hours can pass between the first signs and death. This is not a time to wait and see or to hold out for the next business day. How to recognize it before it is too late.
Michael Sauerwein · July 22, 2026
In brief
There are five things you should know about bloat – gastric dilatation-volvulus, or GDV. First: it is an absolute emergency. Only a few hours can pass between the first signs and death – how fast it progresses depends on the severity and on how early treatment starts. You cannot predict that, which is why this is not a time to wait and see or to hold out for the next business day. Second: the most typical sign is unproductive retching – the dog tries to vomit, and nothing comes up, or only foam. Third: the dog's condition on arrival at the clinic is closely linked to survival – in one analysis, dogs that arrived depressed died three times more often, and comatose dogs thirty-six times more often, than alert ones. Fourth, and this is the most uncomfortable finding: the raised food bowl that was recommended for decades as a preventive measure was associated with a higher risk – in giant breeds, a calculated 52 percent of cases could be attributed to it. Fifth: for dogs of high-risk breeds, there is the option of surgically tacking the stomach in place as a preventive measure.
Bloat is one of the few situations in which minutes count and in which what you know as an owner directly helps decide the outcome. This article explains what happens inside the abdomen, how to recognize it, what you need to do right away – and which of the common prevention tips research has not confirmed.
Note: This article is general information and does not replace veterinary treatment. If you suspect bloat, drive to the nearest emergency veterinary hospital immediately – without reading up on the internet first.
👉 Prevention and health at a glance: Dog health basics
1. How to recognize bloat
This comes first because it is the part that saves lives.
- Unproductive retching. The dog makes motions to vomit, but nothing comes out, or only white foam. This is the single most characteristic sign.
- A distended, hard belly, especially behind the rib cage. In deep-chested dogs this is hard to see at first and easier to feel.
- Marked restlessness. The dog can't find a comfortable position, gets up, lies down, keeps shifting, and seems driven.
- Drooling, often in large amounts.
- Labored, rapid breathing and a hunched back.
- Pale gums, a weak, rapid pulse, and later collapse.
Typical, but not a rule: it happens a few hours after a meal, often in the evening or at night.
Important: Not all of the signs have to appear together. Unproductive retching plus restlessness in a large dog is more than enough reason to leave immediately. Better to go to the clinic once for nothing than once too late.
One point of context, because in an emergency it decides whether you hesitate: this list is not a checklist that has to be ticked off. It describes a picture that builds over minutes to a few hours – and the late signs such as pale gums or collapse are not further down because they matter less, but because they come later. If you wait for them, you have lost the head start this article is all about.
The reverse holds too: going to the clinic once for nothing costs you an evening. Going once too late costs you your dog. That asymmetry is the real reason there is no weighing up when bloat is suspected.
2. What you need to do right away – and what you must not do
Drive to the nearest emergency veterinary hospital immediately. Not to the practice that opens tomorrow morning, but to the nearest facility with an emergency service and the ability to operate.
Call ahead. This is the single most effective way to gain time: the team can prepare the operating room while you are on the way. Say clearly what is going on – “Suspected bloat, large dog, retching without vomiting, we'll be there in twenty minutes.”
Transport calmly. Carry or support your dog if you can, and let him take whatever position he chooses himself.
And what you must not do:
- Do not induce vomiting. The stomach is twisted, there is no way up, and trying only costs time.
- Give nothing to eat or drink, not even water.
- Do not press on the belly or try to “get the air out.”
- No home remedies, no anti-gas drops from the medicine cabinet, no charcoal tablets.
- Do not wait to see whether it gets better on its own. It won't.
👉 What belongs in your emergency supplies: A first aid kit for dogs
3. How to get a large dog into the car
The previous section says “carry or support your dog.” With a Great Dane, a Saint Bernard or a Rottweiler, that is easier written than done – and this is exactly where time gets lost in an emergency. So here, concretely, is what works.
3.1 If your dog can still stand
Then let him walk. A dog who can walk to the car himself is not carried – that costs strength and time and achieves nothing. Lead him calmly, without pulling on his neck, and only help at the edge of the cargo area by lifting his hindquarters while he pulls himself up with his front legs.
3.2 If he is no longer steady on his feet
The most effective makeshift solution is a blanket used as a stretcher. Roll the dog onto it on his side; two people grip the blanket close to his body – not at the corners, or he will sag – and lift at the same time on a count. A sturdy wool blanket will carry even a heavy dog; a bed sheet will tear.
If you are on your own, the same blanket works as a drag sheet across a smooth floor to the door. It doesn't look pretty, and in this situation it is the right thing to do – time beats elegance.
If you have a dog over 40 kg, you should keep a ramp in the car. It makes sense for everyday life anyway, and in an emergency it is the difference between “doable” and “not doable.”
3.3 Positioning in the car
Let your dog take whatever position he chooses himself. Many prefer to stand or sit upright, probably because lying down is more uncomfortable with the pressure in the abdomen – don't force him to lie down, even if that seems safer.
Drive briskly, but not jerkily. Leaning into curves and sudden braking are unpleasant for a dog with a distended belly, and a second emergency on the road helps no one.
3.4 Dividing the roles if there are two of you
One person drives, the other sits with the dog and makes the phone call. This matters more than it sounds: if you are alone, you have to stop to call – and the call is the single biggest time saver, because the hospital can prepare the operating room while you are on your way.
If you are alone, call before you set off, not on the way. Two minutes in the driveway cost less than a hands-free system that won't pair.
4. What actually happens inside the abdomen
The everyday term is misleading, because there are two processes, and the first one alone is already dangerous.
First, the stomach dilates: gas builds up quickly and cannot escape. Then the stomach rotates on its own axis. This closes off both the entrance and the exit at the same time – nothing can go up, nothing can go down. The trapped gas stretches the stomach further, and the pressure in the abdomen rises.
From here on it becomes a circulatory catastrophe, and that is the reason for the speed. The bloated stomach presses on the caudal vena cava, the large vein that returns blood from the back half of the body to the heart. Venous return collapses, the heart fills too little, blood pressure drops – a shock that feeds on itself.
At the same time, the blood supply to the stomach wall is cut off. If that lasts too long, tissue dies. The spleen is often twisted along with the stomach and in some cases has to be removed. In addition, heart rhythm disturbances develop, and they can still appear days later, even after successful surgery.
The time factor is therefore not drama but physiology: every hour increases the likelihood that the stomach wall or spleen cannot be saved. In the analysis of one case series, dogs that were admitted depressed died three times more often than alert dogs – and those admitted comatose thirty-six times more often. Where the stomach wall had already died, the patient was lost eleven times more often.
5. What else it could be
Because this article tells you to leave immediately, the opposite question belongs here too: what looks similar?
Simple gastric dilatation without rotation. The stomach bloats but does not twist. This is also painful and needs treatment, but it is less dramatic – and it can only be told apart on an X-ray, not from the outside.
A foreign body in the stomach or intestine. Here, too, the dog retches and tries to vomit without success. Also a case for the clinic, just with a different course.
Acute gastritis or poisoning. Here something usually does come up, and the belly is not tight.
Splenic torsion. Rare, with a similar circulatory picture, but it also occurs independently of GDV.
Internal bleeding, for example from a ruptured tumor on the spleen. Here weakness and pale gums are the main signs, and the belly fills more slowly.
What all of these possibilities have in common: every one of them needs to be checked by a veterinarian right away. So telling them apart is not a job for you at the kitchen table – it changes nothing about the decision you have to make.
6. The raised food bowl: the recommendation that was linked to higher risk
Now to the point on which much of the popular advice literature is still wrong today.
For decades, the standard advice was to feed large dogs from a raised bowl – to spare the spine and, explicitly, to prevent bloat. Elevated feeders are still sold with exactly that argument.
A large American study tested these recommendations instead of passing them on. Large and giant dogs were followed for five years, and the factors associated with GDV were recorded. The measures recommended at the time were explicitly included in the analysis – a raised bowl, restricting exercise around mealtimes, moistening dry food.
The result was the opposite of what had been expected. Statistically associated with an increased risk were: increasing age, a first-degree relative with a history of GDV, fast eating – and a raised food bowl. By calculation, about 20 percent of cases in large breeds and 52 percent in giant breeds could be attributed to the raised bowl (Glickman et al. 2000).
Two points of context, because this is not meant to cause panic.
This is an observational study, not an experiment. An association is not proof of causation, and it is conceivable that owners of particularly at-risk dogs were the ones who had raised the bowl. One explanation under discussion is that dogs swallow more air when eating from a raised position.
Also: there are medical reasons for a raised bowl, for example certain diseases of the esophagus or severe limitations of the cervical spine. Those reasons remain valid.
What cannot be supported is the statement “Feeding from a raised bowl protects against bloat.” There is no reliable evidence of such a protective effect, and the large study described above found the opposite association. At the same time, research on bowl height is very thin, and a single observational study does not prove that feeding from the floor protects. If you raised the bowl purely for prevention, you are not giving up any proven protection by putting it back on the floor.
7. Other common advice that doesn't hold up
The raised bowl is the best-known case, but not the only one. Four other pieces of advice keep circulating, and three of them are harmful in an emergency.
“Give charcoal tablets or an anti-gas remedy.” The problem is not ordinary gas but a mechanically closed stomach. There is no way down where a remedy could work, and no way up. What this advice costs you is the time spent searching, dosing and administering – and giving anything to a retching dog carries its own risk of something getting into the airway.
“Massage the belly so the air can escape.” The stomach is twisted; nothing escapes. Pressure from outside on a tightly filled stomach can do harm instead, and once again the time is gone.
“Walk him around, it helps him burp.” Here, too, there is nothing to burp up. Exercise also increases the oxygen demand of a dog whose circulation is in the middle of collapsing.
“If he keeps water down, it isn't bloat.” This is the most dangerous of the four, because it sounds like a test. First, a dog with suspected bloat must not drink anything at all. Second, the result tells you nothing – in the early stage, something can still get through.
And one that is neither harmful nor effective: “Soaking dry food protects.” This measure was explicitly tested in the study cited and did not turn out to be protective.
To be clear, because this is easily read the wrong way: “not protective” does not mean “harmful.” Soaking has other benefits – better acceptance, more fluid intake, easier chewing for dogs with dental problems – and if you soak food for those reasons, keep doing it. You just can't count it as prevention against bloat.
What all five have in common: they create the feeling of doing something. In a situation where exactly one action counts – leaving for the clinic – that is the real harm.
8. Which dogs are most at risk
Those affected are mainly large and giant breeds with a deep, narrow chest. Classic examples are the Great Dane, German Shepherd, Weimaraner, setters, Boxer, Saint Bernard, Rottweiler and sighthound breeds – the list is not complete, and mixed-breed dogs with a similar build belong on it too.
The scale is considerable: in an analysis of the same cohort, the lifetime risk for large and giant breeds was estimated at just under a quarter, and for the largest breeds such as the Great Dane at over 40 percent. Both are estimated lifetime risks, extrapolated from observed cases per dog-year – that is, an order of magnitude for the breed, not a prediction for the individual dog. Together with a mortality of about 30 percent of cases, this makes GDV one of the especially relevant life-threatening diseases in these breeds.
Other factors that were associated with an increased risk:
Age. The risk rises over the years, probably because the ligaments that hold the stomach in place become looser with time.
Family history. A parent or sibling with a history of GDV was associated with a markedly increased risk – one reason to ask about family history in high-risk breeds.
Fast eating. A dog who wolfs down his food in seconds probably swallows more air.
Large individual meals. A large amount of food per meal was associated with increased risk; the least favorable pattern was one large meal a day.
👉 Why family history matters: How to recognize a responsible breeder
8.1 Body shape beats breed name
Breed lists are only a shortcut here. What actually counts is the shape of the chest – and you can assess that in any dog yourself, including a mixed breed, for whom no list helps.
Stand your dog sideways in front of you and look at the ratio between chest depth – from the withers to the breastbone – and chest width. A deep, narrow chest is the at-risk type: a lot of height, little width. A dog with a round, barrel-shaped chest does not have this build, even if he is large.
The usual explanation is mechanical: in a deep, narrow chest, the stomach has more room to rotate on its axis. In a broad, round one, it sits more snugly.
In practice, this means two things. A mixed-breed dog of unknown ancestry who has this build belongs in the at-risk group – even if nothing in his papers would trigger a breed list. And conversely, a large but broadly built dog is less at risk than his size would suggest.
What this assessment does not replace: a look at the family history. A first-degree relative with GDV was one of the clearest risk factors in the study – and you only get that information from the breeder, and only if you ask.
9. What this means for feeding
The documented risk factors point to measures that target the right place. Two points of context first, so your expectations are right: the evidence is of varying strength for the individual measures, and none of them offers complete protection. They lower the probability; they do not rule out GDV – so the emergency plan from section 13 is still needed even if you put all of this into practice.
Several smaller meals instead of one large one. Two to three portions a day are the better choice for at-risk breeds.
Slow down eating. Slow-feeder bowls, a food maze, food scattered over a mat, or snuffle mats extend eating time considerably – and give the dog something to do along the way.
Calm at mealtimes. Competition from other dogs drives up the pace. In multi-dog households, feeding separately makes sense.
No raised bowl for prevention. There is no evidence that it protects; unless there is a medical reason for a raised bowl, the floor is a reasonable default.
As for the often-heard rule of keeping the dog quiet before and after eating: it is widely considered sensible, but in the study cited it could not be shown to be a protective factor. Avoiding wild play right after a full meal is still reasonable – just don't believe that this settles the matter.
9.1 Eating speed: measure it once instead of guessing
Eating speed is one of the few risk factors that can actually be changed – and one of those that is practically never measured. Yet it takes just one meal.
Time it from the first bite to the last, once with the usual bowl. On its own, the number doesn't tell you much, because there is no universal threshold. It is the baseline against which you can measure whether a change makes any difference at all.
Because this is where many slow-feeder bowls disappoint: some dogs get used to them and after a while are almost as fast as before. If you bought one once and never measured again, you won't notice.
That is why variety usually works better than a single bowl: a snuffle mat, food scattered over a mat, the portion split across several bowls around the room, food from your hand during a short training exercise. That keeps the slowing effect going and gives the dog something to do along the way – no drawback anyway in the large breeds affected.
And a note on multi-dog households: competition can drive the pace up more than a bowl slows it down. Feeding separately is the more effective measure there.
10. What happens at the clinic
The procedure is standardized, and it helps to know what is coming.
First, the circulation is stabilized: large-bore IV catheters, fluids, pain medication, oxygen. In parallel or immediately afterward comes decompression of the stomach, via a tube or a needle through the abdominal wall, to lower the pressure.
An X-ray confirms the diagnosis and distinguishes simple gastric dilatation from a true volvulus.
Then comes surgery. The stomach is rotated back into place, the stomach wall and spleen are assessed, dead tissue is removed, and the spleen is removed entirely if necessary. Finally, the stomach is tacked to the abdominal wall – the gastropexy – so that the same twist does not happen again. Without this step, a recurrence is very likely.
After that come intensive monitoring, heart rhythm checks and pain management over several days.
There are two things you should know beforehand, because an emergency is not a good time to discuss them: emergency surgery of this kind is expensive – often running into the thousands – and the decision is made under time pressure. If you have a high-risk breed, you should have this question settled before it comes up.
👉 How to put anesthesia risk in perspective: Anesthesia in dogs
11. After surgery
The surgery is over – but that doesn't mean it's all over, and you should be prepared for that.
The first two to three days are the critical ones. During this time, heart rhythm disturbances are common, sometimes appearing only 24 to 48 hours after the procedure. They are the reason inpatient monitoring with an ECG makes sense, and why a dog does not go home right after waking up. Kidney values and clotting are also checked, because the shock may have affected organs.
At home, a rest period of about two to three weeks follows: no jumping, no rough play, no off-leash time, and walks only on leash and short. Feeding starts with small, frequent portions.
Your dog needs to go back to the clinic if there is renewed retching, a distended belly, loss of appetite, vomiting, weakness, or if the incision changes.
The good news: dogs that make it through the first few days and whose stomach wall could be preserved have a good chance of a full recovery. If a gastropexy was performed during surgery – which should be standard – another twist is very unlikely.
11.1 Getting through the rest period at home
Two to three weeks without jumping, rough play or off-leash time sounds manageable, and with a large, fit dog it is not. If you don't prepare for it, after a week you will have a frustrated patient and an irritable family.
Substitutes instead of bans. What drops out is exercise – what remains is mental activity. Nose work while lying down, letting him search for food in a small area, calm problem-solving games, chewing. A mentally occupied dog makes up for part of the missing exercise.
Adapt the environment. Non-slip mats on smooth floors, block off the stairs, keep the sofa off-limits during this time. A dog who jumps up on day five because it was always allowed is not being disobedient.
Rethink leash walks. Short rounds on a loose leash, in calm surroundings, with no contact with other dogs. An encounter that gets him worked up is a risk in this phase – not because of the incision, but because of the pulling and jumping.
Feeding in small portions remains sensible after the rest period, too. If you were planning to make the switch anyway, now is the right time.
And one point for the time after that: the gastropexy protects against the twist, not against bloating. The feeding measures from section 9 therefore remain right for good – surgery does not make them unnecessary.
12. Preventive gastropexy
In dogs of high-risk breeds, the stomach can be attached to the abdominal wall preventively, usually as part of a procedure that is planned anyway, such as a spay or neuter, and often with minimally invasive surgery.
The benefit is clearly defined and should not be overestimated: gastropexy lowers the risk of volvulus very markedly, but does nothing about dilatation. A dog with a tacked stomach can still develop a painfully bloated stomach and will then also need veterinary help – but the life-threatening twist that cuts off the blood supply is avoided very reliably.
Whether it is worth it is a judgment call based on breed, build, family history and how quickly a clinic could be reached in an emergency. For a Great Dane with affected relatives and an hour's drive to the nearest emergency hospital, the answer looks different than for a medium-sized mixed breed in the city. It is a conversation worth having – in good time, not at night.
12.1 What the decision can be based on
Because this judgment is rarely made in a structured way, here are the points that actually carry weight – in order of importance.
Build. Deep and narrow, large to giant breed: that is the starting point. Without this build, the question usually doesn't arise.
Family history. A first-degree relative with GDV shifts the balance markedly – it is one of the clearest risk factors of all.
How quickly you can reach a clinic. This is the point most often forgotten, and it should be near the top of the list. Forty minutes' drive at night is something different from ten. If you live in a rural area, you carry a different risk from someone with a 24-hour hospital in sight.
A procedure that is planned anyway. If the dog is being spayed or neutered or needs anesthesia for another reason, the additional burden of a gastropexy is considerably lower than with a separate procedure.
Age. The risk rises over the years – so a preventive procedure works over a period during which the danger increases, not decreases.
What, on the other hand, is not a good argument: the assumption that you'll notice in time. A considerable share of cases begin at night, and no one plans on not being at home.
And what is not an argument either: that the dog has never had problems so far. Bloat gives no advance warning.
13. What you can prepare in advance
In an emergency, you don't research – you act. What you can take care of now in five minutes saves exactly the time that matters when it counts.
Save the nearest emergency veterinary hospital in your phone – not the practice around the corner, but the facility that operates at night. Check whether it is staffed around the clock; many hospitals are not.
Know the driving time – the nighttime one. If you know it is forty minutes, you decide differently and faster.
Add a second address in case the first one is closed or you are away on vacation.
Settle the cost question in advance. Whether insurance, savings or a payment plan – that is a decision for a quiet afternoon, not for 10:30 at night at the front desk.
Talk it through with your household. Whoever is not at home when it happens should still know where to go.
And if you have a high-risk breed: show the people around you once what unproductive retching looks like and what it means. Otherwise dog sitters, family and neighbors won't recognize it.
14. Limits of the evidence
The central study in this article is a prospective observational study, not a controlled intervention study. It shows associations, not proven causes. The finding on the raised bowl is solid enough to stop giving the old recommendation – but not so solid that the bowl alone should be made out to be the cause. Research on bowl height as a whole is very limited, so the finding is not proof that feeding from the floor prevents bloat.
In addition, the data come from a population of US show dogs from the 1990s. Breed composition, feeding habits and ways of keeping dogs differ from today's dog populations elsewhere.
And the lifetime risks mentioned are extrapolations from observed case numbers per dog-year, not counted individual outcomes. They reflect the order of magnitude, not an exact probability for your dog.
Undisputed, and not qualified by anything, is the practical core: bloat is an emergency that needs surgery right away, and time is the factor you can influence yourself.
15. Conclusion
Bloat is one of the few true emergencies in which what you do in the first minutes helps determine the outcome. Unproductive retching in a large dog, plus restlessness and a tight belly – that is not a situation for waiting, but the moment to call the clinic and leave. The risk cannot be prevented entirely, but it can be meaningfully lowered: several smaller meals and slower eating. A raised bowl offers no proven protection – of all things, the very recommendation that was supposed to lower this risk is among the factors that were associated with an increased risk in one of the most important studies of risk factors.
👉 What matters when you choose: What makes a good veterinarian
And because this article is written for an emergency, here is the short version to remember: unproductive retching plus restlessness in a large dog – call, go, give nothing. Everything else can wait, including the question of whether it really was bloat.
Key takeaways on bloat
Unproductive retching is the single most characteristic sign. The dog makes motions to vomit, and nothing comes up, or only white foam. Together with restlessness in a large dog, that is enough reason to leave immediately.
The condition on arrival is linked to survival. Dogs admitted depressed died three times more often than alert ones, comatose dogs thirty-six times more often – and when the stomach wall had already died, mortality was elevated elevenfold.
The raised bowl was associated with a higher risk, not a lower one: by calculation, about 20 percent of cases in large breeds and 52 percent in giant breeds (Glickman et al., 2000). That is an association from an observational study, not proof of cause – but there is no evidence that a raised bowl protects.
It is a circulatory catastrophe, not an upset stomach. The bloated stomach presses on the caudal vena cava, and blood return to the heart collapses – that is why time counts.
Calling ahead is the biggest time saver. The team can prepare the operating room while you are on the way.
Sensible prevention starts elsewhere: several small meals, slowing down eating, calm at mealtimes, no raised bowl for prevention. Soaking dry food was not protective.
Gastropexy markedly lowers the risk of the twist, not of bloating. A dog with a tacked stomach can still develop a painfully bloated stomach and will then also need help – but the life-threatening twist is avoided very reliably.
The critical days come after surgery. Heart rhythm disturbances sometimes appear only 24 to 48 hours later – which is why the dog stays in the hospital.
References
- Glickman, L. T., Glickman, N. W., Schellenberg, D. B., Raghavan, M. & Lee, T. (2000): Non-dietary risk factors for gastric dilatation-volvulus in large and giant breed dogs. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 217(10): 1492–1499. https://doi.org/10.2460/javma.2000.217.1492 (cumulative incidence of 6 % over the study period; increased risk with increasing age, first-degree relatives with GDV, fast eating and a raised food bowl; about 20 % and 52 % of cases in large and giant breeds, respectively, attributable to the raised bowl by calculation)
- Glickman, L. T., Glickman, N. W., Schellenberg, D. B., Raghavan, M. & Lee, T. L. (2000): Incidence of and breed-related risk factors for gastric dilatation-volvulus in dogs. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 216(1): 40–45. https://doi.org/10.2460/javma.2000.216.40 (five-year cohort of more than 1,900 dogs; estimated lifetime risk about 24 % and 22 % for large and giant breeds, respectively, over 40 % for the Great Dane; mortality about 30 %)
- Raghavan, M., Glickman, N., McCabe, G., Lantz, G. & Glickman, L. T. (2004): Diet-related risk factors for gastric dilatation-volvulus in dogs of high-risk breeds. Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association 40(3): 192–203. https://doi.org/10.5326/0400192 (a larger amount of food per meal associated with increased risk, least favorable a large amount once a day)
- Raghavan, M., Glickman, N. W. & Glickman, L. T. (2006): The effect of ingredients in dry dog foods on the risk of gastric dilatation-volvulus in dogs. Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association 42(1): 28–36. https://doi.org/10.5326/0420028
- Pipan, M., Brown, D. C., Battaglia, C. L. & Otto, C. M. (2012): An internet-based survey of risk factors for surgical gastric dilation-volvulus in dogs. Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association 240(12): 1456–1462. https://doi.org/10.2460/javma.240.12.1456
- Glickman, L. T., Lantz, G. C., Schellenberg, D. B. & Glickman, N. W. (1998): A prospective study of survival and recurrence following the acute gastric dilatation-volvulus syndrome in 136 dogs. Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association 34(3): 253–259. https://doi.org/10.5326/15473317-34-3-253 (136 dogs; 33 of them, i.e. 24.3 %, died or were euthanized within the first seven days; dogs admitted depressed or comatose died three and thirty-six times more often, respectively, than alert dogs, dogs with gastric wall necrosis eleven times more often; median survival time 547 days with gastropexy, 188 without)
Frequently asked questions about bloat in dogs
The questions asked most often, in an emergency and before one
What are the typical signs of bloat in dogs?
Typical signs are unproductive retching without vomiting, marked restlessness, a bloated or hard belly, increased drooling, rapid breathing and, later, circulatory problems. Unproductive retching combined with restlessness in particular is a serious warning sign.
My dog is retching but nothing comes up – could it be bloat?
Yes. Unproductive retching is one of the most important warning signs of bloat. If a dog repeatedly tries to vomit and nothing comes up, or only foam, you should contact an emergency veterinary hospital immediately, especially with large dogs.
What should I do right away if I suspect bloat?
Drive immediately to a veterinary hospital with an emergency service and surgical capability. If possible, call ahead so the team can prepare. Give your dog nothing to eat or drink, and do not try to induce vomiting.
Which dogs are at increased risk of bloat?
Large and giant dogs with a deep chest are particularly at risk, including, for example, Great Danes, German Shepherds, Weimaraners, setters and Saint Bernards. Family history, age, fast eating and large individual meals can also influence the risk.
Does a raised bowl help prevent bloat?
No. The once-common recommendation to feed large dogs from raised bowls to prevent bloat is not supported by the evidence. One large study even found the raised food bowl to be associated with an increased risk.
How can I lower my dog's risk of bloat?
Sensible measures are several smaller meals instead of one very large portion, slower eating with suitable feeding solutions, and avoiding strong competition at mealtimes. The risk can be reduced, but not ruled out completely.
What happens in a dog's body during bloat?
First, the stomach fills with gas and dilates. It can then rotate on its own axis, closing off the entrance and exit. The pressure in the abdomen rises, the blood supply can be compromised, and life-threatening circulatory shock develops.
What happens during surgery for bloat?
At the clinic, the circulation is first stabilized and the stomach decompressed. The stomach is then rotated back into place, damaged tissue is assessed, and often a gastropexy is performed, in which the stomach is attached to the abdominal wall to prevent it from twisting again.
Can a gastropexy prevent bloat?
A gastropexy mainly prevents the dangerous twisting of the stomach. It does not prevent the stomach from bloating. A dog with a tacked stomach still needs veterinary help if severe bloating occurs.
How long is a dog at risk after bloat?
The first two to three days after surgery are especially important, because heart rhythm disturbances, among other things, can occur during this time. Close monitoring in the hospital is therefore often advisable.