Why Dogs Eat Grass: What the Research Shows and When to Pay Attention

In brief

There are four things you should know about grass eating.

First: Grass eating is considered normal behavior in healthy dogs—in the controlled studies available so far, every dog involved ate grass. Those were small groups of twelve animals each, though; the statement rests on a few well-observed dogs, not on a representative survey. Second: The most popular explanation is also the most poorly supported. In the vast majority of cases, dogs don't eat grass in order to vomit. Third: The best-replicated finding is a link with hunger—dogs ate considerably more grass before a meal than after it. This also comes from small studies, but the direction was the same in both. Fourth: The risk isn't in the grass itself but in what's hidden in it: grass awns, snails, pesticides, and a few poisonous plants.

The more interesting question isn't why your dog eats grass, but when the behavior should make you sit up and take notice. Grass eating in itself isn't a warning sign—but a sudden, marked change in it is.

👉 For an overview of all health topics, see our guide to dog health basics.

1. Why do dogs eat grass?

There's no single explanation. What's interesting, though, is how unevenly the various hypotheses are supported—and that the most popular one, of all things, is the weakest.

The best-replicated finding: the link with hunger

The first controlled study of grass eating was published by Bjone, Brown, and Price in 2007. Twelve healthy, dewormed dogs were offered grass three times a day over six days; the researchers recorded how long and how often they ate it.

The numbers come from a small sample of twelve dogs belonging to a single owner and therefore describe a pattern, not a norm: before feeding, the dogs spent an average of 2.7 minutes eating grass; afterward, 0.5 minutes. The longer it had been since the last meal, the more grass they ate. Activity was highest in the morning and lowest in the afternoon.

The obvious interpretation: to a dog, grass is simply something edible. It's more likely to be eaten when the dog is hungry and less likely when it's full. All the dogs in the study were healthy—no illness was needed for the behavior to occur.

The myth of grass as an emetic

The idea that dogs deliberately eat grass to make themselves vomit is the best-known explanation of all. It doesn't hold up under scrutiny.

In the study by Bjone and colleagues, 709 grass-eating events were counted across all observation sessions—and five cases of vomiting in three dogs. McKenzie, Brown, and Price examined the question specifically in 2010: using a fiber supplement (fructo-oligosaccharide), they temporarily induced soft stools and compared the results. Across 374 observed grass-eating events, there were two cases of vomiting.

Even more striking is the direction of the effect: the dogs ate less grass while they had soft stools and more while their digestion was normal. If grass were a form of self-medication for gastrointestinal upset, the result should have been the other way around.

That doesn't mean dogs never vomit after eating grass. It means the sequence usually has to be read the other way around: occasional vomiting is a possible consequence, not the purpose. The authors explicitly qualify their own finding—what they tested was diarrhea, not nausea or constipation. For these other forms of gastrointestinal upset, the question remains open.

Fiber: a hypothesis resting on a single case

The idea that dogs eat grass to take in fiber sounds plausible. The direct evidence for it is thin, however: essentially, there is one case report. In 2007, Kang and colleagues described a miniature poodle that had eaten plants every day for years and stopped within a week after being switched to a high-fiber diet.

A single case shows that this connection can exist—not how common it is. There's also a physiological limitation: dogs digest plant cell walls only to a small extent—they lack the enzymes to do so, and gut transit is short. A meaningful nutritional contribution from grass is therefore unlikely; as pure crude fiber, it could conceivably affect gut transit, but that remains unproven.

In the large owner survey by Sueda, Hart, and Cliff, there was also no association between plant eating and the type of diet. Changing the diet is therefore a legitimate thing to try if your dog eats a striking amount of grass—but not a reliable solution.

Stress and displacement behavior: plausible, but not proven

In practice, grass eating is often interpreted as a displacement behavior—a behavior that doesn't fit the situation and serves to regulate tension. That's an understandable observation shared by many trainers, ourselves included.

What matters is how to classify it: the scientific literature on displacement behaviors in dogs routinely lists tongue flicking, nose licking, paw lifting, yawning, and turning the head away. Grass eating isn't part of this established catalog. So far, no study has linked the behavior to stress parameters under controlled conditions.

For everyday life, this means: if your dog starts eating grass precisely in conflict situations—when meeting another dog, during training, when it can't make any headway—the link is a sensible working hypothesis. It doesn't work as an established explanation.

Taste, age, and habit

Part of the behavior is probably simply preference. In the study by Bjone and colleagues, the dogs showed no preference between the two grass species offered—the frequently repeated claim that there's a particular “dog grass” wasn't confirmed.

An age pattern does emerge, however: in the owner survey by Sueda and colleagues, younger dogs ate plants more often than older ones. That fits what we know from puppy development—young dogs explore their environment intensively with their mouths.

The evolutionary background

Plant eating is well documented in wild canids and other predators. Plant material has been found in fecal and stomach-content samples from wolves and pumas; the proportions vary considerably between studies, so no reliable frequency figure can be derived from them.

One explanation under discussion is a possible contribution to parasite control: undigested plant fibers could speed up gut transit and help expel worms—a mechanism described for whole-leaf swallowing in chimpanzees. For dogs, this is a hypothesis about where the behavior comes from, not an explanation for the individual case. In their survey, Sueda and colleagues explicitly found no association between plant eating and confirmed parasite infection.

What the evidence adds up to

If you put the sections above side by side, you'll see a pattern that's useful beyond this topic: the explanations are supported to very different degrees, and how widespread an explanation is says nothing about how solid it is.

Best supported is the link with hunger—from two controlled studies pointing in the same direction, albeit with small samples. That's not enough for a general rule; it is enough for the best available explanation.

Not supported by the available data is the emetic explanation, with a finding that points the opposite way: less grass eating with soft stools, not more. That was tested only for diarrhea, though, not for nausea.

Weakly supported is the fiber explanation—one documented case, set against an owner survey that found no corresponding association.

Unproven but plausible is the stress explanation. It's missing from the literature not because it has been refuted, but because no one has tested it under controlled conditions.

And a hypothesis about origins, not about the individual case, is the evolutionary parasite-control approach.

What follows from this: with a dog that eats a striking amount of grass, the sensible next step isn't to ask “which explanation is right?” but to check what can actually be changed—feeding, physical and mental exercise, environment. And, if the change is new, to take a look at the dog's health.

2. When it's no longer normal grass eating

The previous chapter dealt with a behavior that's part of the normal repertoire. But there's a neighboring area where the assessment is different—and the line isn't drawn at the grass but at the material.

2.1 Pica: when dogs eat indigestible things

Pica refers to repeatedly eating things that aren't food: soil, stones, sand, wood, fabric, plastic, feces. That's something different from grass eating—and it warrants a workup that grass eating doesn't.

The reason is twofold. Such material can cause mechanical damage, up to and including intestinal obstruction. And it can be a sign of illness: anemia, gastrointestinal disease, and certain metabolic disorders have been described as possible triggers. As a rule, neither plays a role in occasional grass eating.

In practical terms: a dog nibbling blades of grass in a meadow is unremarkable. A dog that digs up and eats soil, picks up stones, or goes after textiles should be examined—even if it otherwise seems healthy.

2.2 The transitions you should notice

When the way of eating changes. Nibbling and chewing is different from hastily gulping down large amounts. The second case is the more telling one, regardless of what is being eaten.

When it no longer stops. A dog that eats for minutes on every walk and can no longer be called away from it is behaving differently from one that snacks in passing.

When soil comes into play. In practice, this is the most common transition—and the one where owners are most likely to say “he just eats grass,” even though the dog has long been doing something else.

When it occurs together with other changes: weight loss, a dull coat, changes in drinking, soft stools over a longer period.

2.3 Eating feces as a separate case

Eating feces formally counts as pica but is assessed differently: it's common in young dogs and is often outgrown, and the dog's own feces or those of other dogs don't carry the same significance as horse manure or the droppings of wild animals.

It matters for a different reason than grass eating does: it's a route of transmission for parasites—and thus an argument for a well-thought-out deworming plan, not for behavior therapy.

What both behaviors have in common: they're easier to manage through the environment than through prohibitions. The point from Chapter 5 applies here just the same.

3. Is eating grass dangerous?

For a healthy dog, the grass itself is unproblematic in normal amounts. The relevant risks lie in what's in it—and they vary a great deal in how hard they are to assess.

Grass awns – the most concrete risk

From May into the fall, grass awns are the most significant practical danger in a meadow. These barbed seed heads get caught in the coat and work their way into the nose, ears, eyes, and between the toes—and because of their shape, they move in only one direction: deeper into the tissue.

When a dog eats grass, its mouth comes into direct contact with the plants. Awns can penetrate the lining of the mouth, the tongue, the tonsil area, or the throat. Typical signs are sudden gagging, lip smacking, head shaking, pawing at one side of the muzzle, or a swelling that only becomes noticeable days later.

During awn season, be especially careful around tall, mature, dry grass—that's where exposure is highest.

👉 What you can recognize and do is covered in detail in our guide Grass awns in dogs.

Snails and lungworm

French heartworm (Angiostrongylus vasorum) uses slugs and snails as intermediate hosts. Dogs classically become infected by eating a slug or snail. ESCCAP also lists the direct oral uptake of larvae that snails have released into the environment as a possible route of transmission—explicitly including through grass eating. According to experimental data, these larvae remain infective for at least eight weeks.

How much this second route matters in practice hasn't been established so far. Prevalence is also hard to pin down: in a targeted study of dogs with unexplained respiratory signs, 7.4 percent tested positive—a figure from a heavily preselected group that can't be generalized to dogs as a whole. Older surveys based on routine lab submissions were in the range of fractions of a percent.

The disease shows up mainly as breathing problems and clotting disorders and is readily treatable—provided someone thinks of it. If your dog likes to eat snails or slug-covered grass, that's a point to raise the next time you talk to your veterinarian.

Treated areas

Lawns that have been fertilized or treated with pesticides, roadsides, and intensively maintained green spaces are the areas you can avoid most easily. The effort is small and the safety gain is clear—here, being consistent pays off more than with anything else in this section.

Roundworm eggs also persist in soil for a long time. They're not a problem specific to grass eating, though, but an argument for a well-thought-out deworming or fecal-testing plan.

Poisonous plants among the grass

In natural meadows, a few plants grow that are seriously dangerous if eaten. The most important in practice are autumn crocus (colchicine; very small toxic dose, severe course) and yew (taxines; fast-acting). Both are highly relevant for dogs.

For other commonly cited meadow plants, the significance for dogs is lower than the usual lists would suggest: tansy ragwort, for example, is a liver toxin with a chronic action profile and primarily a problem for horses and cattle, which take it in in large amounts through hay—for dogs, it isn't a typical poisoning scenario.

👉 For a complete overview, see Plants toxic to dogs. If you suspect poisoning, Suspected poisoning in dogs: what to do in an emergency will help you.

Large amounts at once

If a dog eats a great deal of grass in a short time, temporary discomfort and vomiting are possible. Blockages from matted plant fibers do occur but are rare and mostly affect dogs that already eat strikingly large amounts of indigestible material.

Conspicuous gulping is the more telling finding here: a dog that wolfs grass down hastily and in quantity instead of nibbling and chewing is behaving differently from one that snacks in passing. This change is worth a closer look.

Snails: what you can do in practice

The snail route can't be eliminated, but it can be reduced—and the measures are simpler than the topic sounds.

Time of day matters. Slugs and snails are active mainly at night, early in the morning, and after rain. If you move your meadow walk to a dry afternoon during snail season, you'll markedly reduce encounters.

Avoid damp, shady areas, especially dense ground cover along streams, ditches, and forest edges.

Don't leave water bowls and toys outside overnight. This is the point hardly anyone thinks of—snails crawl over both and leave slime trails, and in the morning the bowl gets emptied.

And in your own yard: if you put out slug pellets, check whether they're safe for dogs; some products are problematic. Mechanical measures are the safer choice here.

What you shouldn't conclude from this is that grass eating should be banned. The snail route is one of several, its practical importance hasn't been established (see above), and the probability is out of all proportion to the conflict a permanent ban creates. What counts is telling your veterinary practice if your dog actually eats snails—so that a cough gets interpreted differently.

The post-walk check

The risks in this chapter add up to a routine that takes two minutes and makes the biggest difference during awn season.

The mouth. Lift the lips and look at the gums and tongue. An awn in the mouth often shows up as a small reddened spot, or the dog smacks its lips on one side or paws at its muzzle.

The paws. Spread the toes apart and check the spaces between them—this is the most common entry point of all.

Ears, eyes, armpits, and groin. Anywhere the coat is thin and the skin folds.

The coat as a whole, especially in long-haired dogs and after walks through tall grass.

What you might notice that shouldn't wait: a swelling that feels warm, sudden one-sided head shaking, a squinting eye, persistent licking of a paw, or sneezing fits after a walk. Awns move in only one direction—waiting makes things more involved, not easier.

The routine pays off for more than just awns: it's also a chance to find ticks, notice injuries, and keep up the handling that other chapters of this guide call for anyway.

4. When your dog vomits afterward

Chapter 1 does away with the idea that dogs eat grass in order to vomit. That some dogs do vomit after eating grass remains unaffected—and for owners, that's exactly the moment they wonder whether something is wrong.

4.1 What usually happens

Long blades of grass are only partly chewed. They can irritate the throat and the entrance to the stomach, and if that's enough, the blade comes back up along with some foam or mucus. Afterward, the dog seems fine, keeps eating normally, and goes about its day.

It's unpleasant to watch and, as a rule, has no consequences. The frequency puts it in perspective: in the controlled study, 709 grass-eating events were matched by five cases of vomiting.

4.2 When to read it differently

When the retching produces nothing. A dog that retches and brings nothing up—especially a large dog with a bloated belly—may have something else going on, and that can't wait.

When it keeps happening. Vomiting several times over a few hours is no longer a grass-eating phenomenon.

When there's blood in it or the vomit looks like coffee grounds.

When the dog wasn't right beforehand. This is the most important reversal: a dog that eats a striking amount of grass in a hurry and then vomits may already have been nauseous before—and in that case, grass eating is the symptom, not the cause.

This is exactly where the practical value of Chapters 1 and 2 lies: if you know that grass isn't a form of self-medication, you won't read a change in eating behavior as the dog helping itself—you'll look into what's behind it.

4.3 What to observe

How often, how much, in what context, and how your dog is doing in the hours afterward. If you're unsure, a phone video of the retching is the most useful information—telling vomiting, regurgitation, and unproductive retching apart works much better from footage than from a description.

5. What can you do in everyday life?

Most important: manage the place, not the behavior

Because grass eating is a normal behavior, there's no reason to stop it across the board. Choosing the right areas makes more sense: untreated, short to medium-height grass instead of roadsides, ornamental lawns, and mature, dry stands during awn season.

We advise against routinely pulling your dog away and scolding. It creates conflict over a behavior that's usually unproblematic—and dogs put under time pressure while eating tend to swallow more hastily instead of nibbling. If you want to interrupt in a specific situation, do it with a positively trained recall or a reorientation cue, not with pressure.

Observe rather than judge

Because it's not frequency itself but a change in it that serves as a signal, it's worth having a rough sense of what's normal for your dog: Does he tend to eat grass in the morning before his meal? Mostly out on walks? Mostly in certain situations? If you roughly know this, you'll notice when something deviates.

Check the diet

If your dog eats a striking amount of grass, it makes sense to look at the ration—amount, distribution over the day, crude fiber content. Based on the data, though, expectations should be modest: the documented link rests on a single reported case.

Physical and mental exercise

For dogs that eat grass mainly during idle phases, giving them something to do is a sensible approach—scent work, search games, varied walking routes. Whether that addresses the cause, you'll only know afterward; it does no harm.

👉 We collect ideas for this in Mental stimulation and scent games.

Puppies and adolescent dogs

The age finding from Chapter 1—younger dogs eat plants more often than older ones—has practical consequences, because two things come together in a puppy.

He explores with his mouth. Whatever he finds gets picked up and checked out, and that's part of normal development. If you turn this into a constant conflict, you mainly risk your puppy swallowing his finds faster as soon as someone steps in.

He doesn't tell things apart yet. Grass, soil, pebbles, cigarette butts—to a puppy, they all start out in the same category. That's exactly why the area matters more for him than for an adult dog, and exactly why it's worth guiding the picking-up early rather than forbidding it.

What we recommend: build a trade cue while it's still easy—the find in exchange for something better, without rushing and without chasing after him. And during puppyhood, deliberately go to areas that are suitable according to Chapter 6 rather than preventing every pickup.

The difference shows later on: a dog that has learned that people become interesting when he finds something can often be called away from finds more easily later in life than one that has had everything taken away.

6. Which areas are suitable and which aren't

The advice from Chapter 5 is to manage the place rather than the behavior. What that means in concrete terms determines how useful it is—so here's an assessment by type of area and season.

6.1 Generally unproblematic

Your own yard, as long as it isn't fertilized or treated with pesticides. It has the advantage that you know what has been done there.

Extensively managed meadows and forest edges with short to medium-height growth, away from paths where spraying takes place.

Mowed areas—because there are neither ripe awns nor tall stands of grass there.

6.2 Better to avoid

Roadsides and the edges of farm tracks. Several things come together here: spray from the adjacent fields, exhaust fumes, and the feces of many other dogs.

Well-kept ornamental lawns in parks, front yards, and landscaped grounds—fertilized, often treated, and some of the products remain active for quite a while.

Tall, mature, dry stands during awn season, roughly from May into the fall. This is the point from Chapter 3 and the only one where the season makes a marked difference.

Damp, shady areas with lots of snails, especially in the morning and after rain.

Freshly mowed meadows with clippings lying on the ground, because dogs can take in large amounts at once there and because wilting material ferments differently.

6.3 What you can ask

For public green spaces, it's perfectly legitimate to ask whether and with what they're treated—the local authority or park management can usually tell you. For agricultural land, the rule of thumb is simpler: where a tractor drives, something gets spread.

And a practical note for your own yard: if you know your dog eats grass there, choose your lawn fertilizer and weed killer accordingly—or do without both.

If you do want to interrupt in a particular situation

Chapter 5 advises against routinely pulling your dog away. But there are situations where you'll want to step in—on a treated area, in a patch full of awns, with a dog that's just starting to gulp. For these, it's worth understanding the difference between two approaches.

One approach is prohibition. Calling, pulling, taking away. It works in the moment and has two side effects: the dog can learn that eating happens under time pressure—and then tends to swallow faster instead of nibbling. And he can learn that your approach means something is about to be taken away.

The other approach is reorientation. A cue that offers an alternative instead of forbidding an action: a recall, a hand touch, a tossed piece of food, a change of direction. The dog breaks off because something else pays off.

The second approach takes more effort to build and is more reliable in everyday life—for the same reason that applies to other finds: a dog that expects something good when his person approaches is more likely to let go. One that expects to lose something is more likely to swallow faster.

And for the area itself, there's a simpler solution: if you know your dog shouldn't eat at a particular spot, walk past it on leash instead of interrupting twenty times. That's not giving in—it's management.

7. When should you see your veterinarian?

The grass eating isn't the reason to go—what comes along with it is:

• The behavior changes markedly and suddenly—in frequency, amount, or manner (hasty gulping instead of nibbling)
• Vomiting occurs repeatedly, not just once in a while
• Other signs appear: diarrhea, loss of appetite, drooling, restlessness, lethargy, a guarded posture
• After eating grass, your dog keeps gagging, smacking its lips, or pawing at its muzzle—a possible sign of a grass awn
• Breathing problems, coughing, or an unusual tendency to bleed appear
• Your dog eats grass and clearly seems unwell while doing so

The last point is the decisive one. A healthy-looking dog that eats grass in passing doesn't need an appointment. A dog that visibly isn't right does—regardless of whether it has eaten grass.

What to tell your veterinarian

Because “he eats a lot of grass” on its own says little, here are the four points that turn an impression into usable information.

Since when. A behavior that has been around for years is different from one that's been new for three weeks. This single piece of information often already points the way.

How much and how. Casual nibbling or minutes of hasty gulping—that's the distinction from Chapter 2.

When in the daily routine. Before meals, after meals, in conflict situations, during idle phases. Based on the data, a link with the last meal is what you'd expect—a pattern that deviates from it is the more telling observation.

What else is different. Weight, stool, appetite, how much your dog drinks, activity level. Grass eating on its own is rarely the information that moves things forward; the combination is.

If you write this down for a week, you'll arrive at the appointment with something concrete rather than a hunch—and in the best case, you'll spare yourself an examination that wouldn't have found anything anyway.

8. Conclusion: normal, but not arbitrary

Grass eating is part of a dog's normal behavioral repertoire. The popular explanation—that the dog uses it to treat its stomach—doesn't hold up to experimental testing; the more robust link is with hunger.

In practical terms, this shifts your attention: away from the question of whether your dog eats grass and toward where and how. The place determines the risk—pesticides, snails, grass awns, a few poisonous plants. And a marked change in the pattern is the signal worth watching for, not the behavior itself.

If you take only one thing away from this article: let your dog graze—and look at where. Choosing the area is the lever that addresses the risk most directly in this topic. Generally preventing the behavior itself achieves little and can strain your relationship.

Key takeaways on why dogs eat grass

Grass eating is considered normal behavior in healthy dogs. In the controlled studies available, every dog involved ate grass—small groups of twelve animals each, but no illness was needed for the behavior to occur.

The emetic myth doesn't hold up. 709 grass-eating events were matched by five cases of vomiting; in the targeted study, the dogs actually ate less grass rather than more when they had soft stools.

The best-replicated finding is the link with hunger. An average of 2.7 minutes before feeding, 0.5 minutes after—the longer since the last meal, the more. The samples are small; the direction was the same in both studies.

The fiber hypothesis rests on a single case report. It shows that this connection can exist—not how common it is. The large owner survey found no association with the type of diet.

Grass eating as a displacement behavior is a working hypothesis, not an established explanation. It doesn't appear in the established catalog of displacement behaviors in dogs.

There's no evidence for a special “dog grass.” The dogs showed no preference between the two grass species offered.

The risk isn't in the grass but in what's in it: grass awns as the most concrete problem, plus snails as intermediate hosts, treated areas, and a few poisonous plants—in practice, mainly autumn crocus and yew.

The signal isn't frequency but a change in it. A sudden, marked increase or a switch from nibbling to hasty gulping is worth a closer look.

Manage the place, not the behavior. Pulling your dog away and scolding creates conflict over something unproblematic—and dogs under time pressure tend to swallow more hastily instead of nibbling.

References

• Beaver, B. V. (1981). Grass eating by carnivores. Veterinary Medicine, Small Animal Clinician, 76(7), 968–969.
• Bjone, S. J., Brown, W. Y., & Price, I. R. (2007). Grass eating patterns in the domestic dog, Canis familiaris. Recent Advances in Animal Nutrition in Australia, 16, 45–49.

• ESCCAP Deutschland e. V. (2025). Bekämpfung von Würmern (Helminthen) bei Hunden und Katzen (ESCCAP-Empfehlung Nr. 1). https://www.esccap.de/empfehlung/helminthen-2/
• Hart, B. L. (2008). Why do dogs and cats eat grass? Veterinary Medicine, 103(12), 648–649.

• Huffman, M. A., Page, J. E., Sukhdeo, M. V. K., Gotoh, S., Kalunde, M. S., Chandrasiri, T., & Towers, G. H. N. (1996). Leaf-swallowing by chimpanzees: A behavioral adaptation for the control of strongyle nematode infections. International Journal of Primatology, 17(4), 475–503. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02735191

• Kang, B.-T., Jung, D.-I., Yoo, J.-H., Park, C., Woo, E.-J., & Park, H.-M. (2007). A high fiber diet responsive case in a poodle dog with long-term plant eating behavior. Journal of Veterinary Medical Science, 69(7), 779–782. https://doi.org/10.1292/jvms.69.779

• McKenzie, S. J., Brown, W. Y., & Price, I. R. (2010). Reduction in grass eating behaviours in the domestic dog, Canis familiaris, in response to a mild gastrointestinal disturbance. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 123(1–2), 51–55. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.applanim.2009.12.014

• Sueda, K. L. C., Hart, B. L., & Cliff, K. D. (2008). Characterisation of plant eating in dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 111(1–2), 120–132. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.applanim.2007.05.018

A note on the sources

The statements on grass eating are based on the available primary studies, of which there are only a handful in this field: two controlled behavioral experiments with small samples (Bjone et al. 2007, n = 12; McKenzie et al. 2010) and a multi-part owner survey (Sueda et al. 2008). The survey data are based on owner reports and, for the most part, were specifically directed at owners of grass-eating dogs; the frequency figures from it therefore can't be generalized to the overall dog population. The information on Angiostrongylus vasorum was assessed using veterinary reference information and the recommendations of ESCCAP Germany. Statements on poisonous plants were assessed using standard toxicology sources. Some of the primary studies were not fully evaluated in full text for this version.

Frequently asked questions about why dogs eat grass

What dog owners ask most often